The construction of Pendennis Castle on the southern point of Carrick Roads in the sixteenth century prepared the ground for the growth of FALMOUTH, then no more than a fishing village. The building of its deepwater harbour was proposed a century later by Sir John Killigrew, and Falmouth's prosperity was assured when in 1689 it became chief base of the fast Falmouth Packets, which sped mail to the Americas. However, recent years have seen the port's character submerged beneath waves of tourist traffic attracted to the lush beaches to the south of town, and the long High Street and its continuations Market and Church streets are now crammed with humdrum bars and cafés. The southern end of Arwenack Street, though, does have the Tudor remains of the Killigrews' Arwenack House (closed to the public); the peculiar granite pyramid standing opposite, built in 1737, is probably intended to commemorate the family, though its exact significance has never been clear.
Falmouth's links with the sea are explored at the Maritime Museum at Bell's Court, at the Moor end of the High Street (Easter-Oct daily 10am-5pm; Oct-Easter Mon-Sat 10am-3pm; £2.20), which tracks the evolution of boat design - rather a lacklustre collection at present, but soon to be revitalized when it transfers to a purpose-built exhibition space on Arwenack Street. Apart from this, the centre of town only offers a clamber up the precipitous 111 steps of Jacob's Ladder from the Moor, the old town's main square, to give a bird's-eye view of the harbour, and the numerous boat cruises in summer which leave from the Prince of Wales Pier, below the Moor, for exploring the Carrick Roads.
The highlight of Falmouth is Pendennis Castle (daily: April-June & Sept 10am-6pm; July & Aug 9am-6pm; Oct 10am-5pm; Nov-March 10am-4pm; £3.80; EH), standing sentinel at the tip of the promontory separating Carrick Roads from Falmouth Bay. The stronghold shows little evidence of its five-month siege by the Parliamentarians during the Civil War, which ended only when half its defenders had died and the rest had been starved into submission. Though less refined than its sister castle at St Mawes, Pendennis enjoys an unrivalled site, facing right out to sea on its own pointed peninsula, the stout ramparts offering the best all-round views of Carrick Roads and Falmouth Bay. In August, the castle grounds stay open late for concerts and other events. Round Pendennis Point, south of the centre, stretches a long sandy bay with various beaches backed by expensive hotels. If you wanted to swim, the best spot is from Swanpool Beach, accessible by cliff path from the more popular Gyllyngvase Beach - or walk a couple of miles farther on to Maenporth, from where there are some fine cliff-top walks.
Falmouth's tourist office is off the Moor, on Killigrew Street (Easter-June & Sept Mon-Thurs & Sat 9.30am-5.30pm, Fri 9am-4.45pm; July & Aug also Sun 10am-2pm; Oct-Easter Mon-Thurs 9am-1pm & 2-5pm, Fri 9am-1pm & 2-4.45pm; tel 01326/312300). Most of the town's accommodation is near the train station and beach area; top choices include Brandywine Lodge , 3 Bay View Crescent (tel 01326/318709; under £40), a cosy cottage just off Castle Drive, and the Melvill House Hotel, 52 Melvill Rd (tel 01326/316645; £40-50), run by a Franco-Scottish couple. Expect to pay more for places nearer the beaches, such as Gyllyngvase House Hotel, a staid but comfortable choice on Gyllyngvase Rd (tel 01326/312956; £50-60), and Chellowdene (tel 01326/314950; £50-60; closed Oct-April) on the parallel Gyllyngvase Hill. You can eat in congenial surroundings at No. 33 , 33 High St (tel 01326/211944; closed Sun), an easy-going café/restaurant, while the best fish in town is to be found off the main drag at the Seafood Bar, Lower Quay Hill (tel 01326/315129; closed lunch, plus all Sun & Mon), where thick crab soup is a speciality. The Quayside Inn, further up on Arwenack Street, is the pick of the pubs.
|
|
|
|
